Super surprise: Why Louis Vuitton chose Kidsuper to create its next menswear collection

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KidSuper founder Colm Dillane, with just two shows at Paris Fashion Week, returns next week with a remarkable new gig at Louis Vuitton, the world’s largest luxury house.

The Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2023 menswear collection, which will be presented on January 19, was created by the men’s studio “with the participation” of Dillane. “In other words, Colm is built into the men’s studio,” the house said on Tuesday. The show will also feature scenography by Lina Kutsovská and French directors Michel and Olivier Gondry, who directed the prelude to the show. And expect a performance from an as-yet-undisclosed “world-renowned music star.”

According to the house, this means the continuation of the talent collective concept already seen in the last two seasons after the death of Virgil Abloh, the artistic director of the men’s house. Kutsovskaya has been Abloh’s longtime collaborator, as has Ib Kamara, who will be styling the upcoming show.

So why did Louis Vuitton choose Dillan?

This season’s collaboration format, which effectively makes Dillan the first-ever guest runway designer thanks to his “embedded” cameo role, appears to have been planned as a placeholder. Since Abloh’s sudden death in November 2021, the house has carefully considered the sensitive question of who might replace him — a big question given Abloh’s generational influence and influence. Many names (including Dillan) were discussed. However, by handing Dillane the task of promoting menswear only temporarily, it will relieve that pressure and give the company time to align and execute future creative strategy plans—and perhaps even appoint a long-term successor to Abloh. .

LVMH-owned Louis Vuitton is the biggest luxury house in the world: its sales rose 20 percent to 20.6 billion euros in 2022 and are expected to reach 21.9 billion euros in 2023, according to HSBC estimates. While menswear is not a major part of the business, the role of men’s artistic director is crucial given the size of the house, the importance of leather goods, which analysts say makes up over 70 percent of the house’s sales, and the halo effect. the men’s designer’s creative vision of the brand’s overall need.

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