Martine Rose’s Italian-disco ode to Florence at Pitti Uomo

British designer Martine Rose – known for her warped, quirky approach to clothing that draws from the subcultures and countercultures of her native London – had no idea she’d be a guest designer at Florence’s Pitti Uomo 103 menswear fair when she first created her A. /W 2023 collection. And yet there was a distinct energy of the Italian city at the presentation, which took place last night (January 12, 2023) in the central Mercato Nuovo. “Once I was invited, Florence influenced everything, even subconsciously,” she said.

Before the show, Rose said she began preparations for the guest spot by thinking: ‘How do I do what I do in London, in Florence?’ In her hometown, she has chosen a number of unusual venues to showcase her collections – which often don’t follow the typical menswear calendar and are instead presented when the designer feels ready – from a cul-de-sac in North London (residents watching from their front gardens) to last season , where she took over a seedy, latex-draped nightclub in Vauxhall during London Fashion Week S/S 2023. Her cast, which is often eclectic and spans ages and occupations, comes mostly from a collection of friends and long-time collaborators that Rose calls her ‘London family’ .

Martine Rose A/W 2023 at Pitti Uomo 103

Martine Rose show with a man in overalls

(Image credit: Courtesy of Martine Rose)

Some of them traveled to Italy with Rose, although most of the actors in this latest show were sourced from the streets of Florence and ranged from those who work in local bars, clubs and restaurants to players from the Calcio Fiorentino football team, along with other found Italians. away from Rose’s team. “I’m so proud because a lot of them have never done it before and I think they paid tribute to Florence in the way I hope,” Rose said after the show. “I wanted it to look like a real collaboration between Italy and London.”

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