Gucci recasts during Milan Fashion Week

MILAN — Gucci pulled off another January surprise to open its menswear shows at Milan Fashion Week on Friday, taking a new direction after Alessandro Michele stepped down as creative director.

Much like Michele’s low-key debut eight years ago at the helm of his own team, Gucci’s show heralded the new post-Michel era as an understated affair, quietly reformulating the codes of the brand founded in Florence more than a century ago. baggage company.

Under Michel, imagination soared with ever-escalating artistry and layers of embellishment in romantic collections that erased gender barriers and intellectually challenged the fashion crowd with notes referencing sometimes obscure thinkers.

Those embellishments have been removed, at least for now, with an easy-to-read collection.

A few highlights from Friday’s performances:


Gucci began its post-Michele era with a palette-cleansing collection that carried a whiff of his influence but took a strikingly new and spare direction.

Stripped of eccentricity, the collection brought Gucci back to basics with a rock’n’roll vibe backed by a live performance by American guitarist Marc Ribot’s Ceramic Dog in the center of the amphitheater. Front row guests included Nick Cave with his wife Susie, Canadian actor Percy Hynes White, who appears in the Netflix hit “Wednesday,” British actor Idris Elba and South Korean singer Kai.

Basic looks included oversized jackets with paper tops worn with trailing trousers or long trousers, tucked into light colored cowboy boots accented with leg warmers. The color palette was muted, denim and khaki, gray and canary yellow, purple and ice blue.

There were still genderless references, but they were more glam rock than necessarily for the demographic. The poet’s shirt had a deep, sexy V, but no bow; T-shirts and mohair sweaters were sheer and long skirts appeared to be detached from the trousers and were paired with striped rugby shirts.

Many of these looks would work for Michele’s runway, but they would definitely be layered with ideas, memories, and memories expressed through quirky motifs and elaborate accents. With its elongated, roomy silhouette and masculine edge, which can be seen in oversize mechanic and motorcycle overalls, the new collection will be easy for many to fall in love with.

The collection was designed by an in-house team that didn’t bow out after the show.

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